How I Found Livingstone, Henry M. Stanley [best fantasy books to read txt] 📗
- Author: Henry M. Stanley
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good living—abhors marching, unless he has nothing to carry but
his gun.
Jumah is the best abused man of the party, because he has
old-womanish ways with him, yet in his old-womanish ways he is
disposed to do the best he can for me, though he will not carry a
pound in weight without groaning terribly at his hard fate. To me
he is sentimental and pathetic; to the unimportant members of the
caravan he is stern and uncompromising. But the truth is, that I
could well dispense with Jumah’s presence: he was one of the
incorrigible inutiles, eating far more than he was worth; besides
being an excessively grumbling and querulous fool.
Ulimengo, a strong stalwart fellow of thirty, was the maddest and
most hare-brained of my party. Though an arrant coward, he was a
consummate boaster. But though a devotee of pleasure and fun, he
was not averse from work. With one hundred men such as he, I could
travel through Africa provided there was no fighting to do. It
will be remembered that he was the martial coryphaeus who led my
little army to war against Mirambo, chanting the battle-song of
the Wangwana; and that I stated, that when the retreat was determined
upon, he was the first of my party to reach the stronghold of Mfuto.
He is a swift runner, and a fair hunter. I have been indebted to
him on several occasions for a welcome addition to my larder.
Ferajji, a former dish-washer to Speke, was my cook. He was
promoted to this office upon the defection of Bunder Salaam, and
the extreme non-fitness of Abdul Kader. For cleaning dishes, the
first corn-cob, green twig, a bunch of leaves or grass, answered
Ferajji’s purposes in the absence of a cloth. If I ordered a
plate, and I pointed out a black, greasy, sooty thumbmark to him,
a rub of a finger Ferajji thought sufficient to remove all
objections. If I hinted that a spoon was rather dirty, Ferajji
fancied that with a little saliva, and a rub of his loin cloth, the
most fastidious ought to be satisfied. Every pound of meat, and
every three spoonfuls of musk or porridge I ate in Africa,
contained at least ten grains of sand. Ferajji was considerably
exercised at a threat I made to him that on arrival at Zanzibar,
I would get the great English doctor there to open my stomach,
and count every grain of sand found in it, for each grain of which
Ferajji should be charged one dollar. The consciousness that my
stomach must contain a large number, for which the forfeits would
be heavy, made him feel very sad at times. Otherwise, Ferajji was
a good cook, most industrious, if not accomplished. He could
produce a cup of tea, and three or four hot pancakes, within ten
minutes after a halt was ordered, for which I was most grateful,
as I was almost always hungry after a long march. Ferajji sided
with Baraka against Bombay in Unyoro, and when Speke took Bombay’s
side of the question, Ferajji, out of love for Baraka, left Speke’s
service, and so forfeited his pay.
Maganga was a Mnyamwezi, a native of Mkwenkwe, a strong, faithful
servant, an excellent pagazi, with an irreproachable temper. He
it was who at all times, on the march, started the wildly exuberant
song of the Wanyamwezi porters, which, no matter how hot the sun,
or how long the march, was sure to produce gaiety and animation
among the people. At such times all hands sang, sang with voices
that could be heard miles away, which made the great forests ring
with the sounds, which startled every animal big or little, for
miles around. On approaching a village the temper of whose people
might be hostile to us, Maganga would commence his song, with the
entire party joining in the chorus, by which mode we knew whether
the natives were disposed to be friendly or hostile. If hostile,
or timid, the gates would at once be closed, and dark faces would
scowl at us from the interior; if friendly, they rushed outside of
their gates to welcome us, or to exchange friendly remarks.
An important member of the Expedition was Selim, the young Arab.
Without some one who spoke good Arabic, I could not have obtained
the friendship of the chief Arabs in Unyanyembe; neither could I
have well communicated with them, for though I understood Arabic,
I could not speak it.
I have already related how Kalulu came to be in my service, and
how he came to bear his present name. I soon found how apt and
quick he was to learn, in consequence of which, he was promoted
to the rank of personal attendant. Even Selim could not vie with
Kalulu in promptness and celerity, or in guessing my wants at the
table. His little black eyes were constantly roving over the
dishes, studying out the problem of what was further necessary,
or had become unnecessary.
We arrived at the Ziwani, in about 4 h. 30 m. from the time of
our quitting the scene which had well-nigh witnessed a sanguinary
conflict. The Ziwani, or pool, contained no water, not a drop,
until the parched tongues of my people warned them that they must
proceed and excavate for water. This excavation was performed (by
means of strong hard sticks sharply pointed) in the dry hard-caked
bottom. After digging to a depth of six feet their labours were
rewarded with the sight of a few drops of muddy liquid percolating
through the sides, which were eagerly swallowed to relieve their
raging thirst. Some voluntarily started with buckets, gourds,
and canteens south to a deserted clearing called the “Tongoni”
in Ukamba, and in about three hours returned with a plentiful
supply for immediate use, of good and clear water.
In 1 h. 30 m. we arrived at this Tongoni, or deserted clearing of
the Wakamba. Here were three or four villages burnt, and an
extensive clearing desolate, the work of the Wa-Ruga-Raga of Mirambo.
Those of the inhabitants who were left, after the spoliation and
complete destruction of the flourishing settlement, emigrated
westerly to Ugara. A large herd of buffalo now slake their thirst
at the pool which supplied the villages of Ukamba with water.
Great masses of iron haematite cropped up above the surfaces in
these forests. Wild fruit began to be abundant; the wood-apple
and tamarind and a small plum-like fruit, furnished us with many
an agreeable repast.
The honey-bird is very frequent in these forests of Ukonongo.
Its cry is a loud, quick chirrup. The Wakonongo understand how
to avail themselves of its guidance to the sweet treasure of honey
which the wild bees have stored in the cleft of some great tree.
Daily, the Wakonongo who had joined our caravan brought me immense
cakes of honey-comb, containing delicious white and red honey.
The red honey-comb generally contains large numbers of dead bees,
but our exceedingly gluttonous people thought little of these.
They not only ate the honey-bees, but they also ate a good deal of
the wax.
As soon as the honey-bird descries the traveller, he immediately
utters a series of wild, excited cries, hops about from twig to
twig, and from branch to branch, then hops to another tree,
incessantly repeating his chirruping call. The native, understanding
the nature of the little bird, unhesitatingly follows him; but
perhaps his steps are too slow for the impatient caller, upon which
he flies back, urging him louder, more impatient cries, to hasten,
and then darts swiftly forward, as if he would show how quickly he
could go to the honey-store, until at last the treasure is reached,
the native has applied fire to the bees’ nest, and secured the honey,
while the little bird preens himself, and chirrups in triumphant
notes, as if he were informing the biped that without his aid he
never could have found the honey.
Buffalo gnats and tsetse were very troublesome on this march,
owing to the numerous herds of game in the vicinity.
On the 9th of October we made a long march in a southerly direction,
and formed our camp in the centre of a splendid grove of trees.
The water was very scarce on the road. The Wamrima and Wanyamwezi
are not long able to withstand thirst. When water is plentiful
they slake their thirst at every stream and pool; when it is scarce,
as it is here and in the deserts of Marenga and Magunda Mkali,
long afternoon-marches are made; the men previously, however, filling
their gourds, so as to enable them to reach the water early next
morning. Selim was never able to endure thirst. It mattered not
how much of the precious liquid he carried, he generally drank it
all before reaching camp, and he consequently suffered during the
night. Besides this, he endangered his life by quaffing from every
muddy pool; and on this day he began to complain that he discharged
blood, which I took to be an incipient stage of dysentery.
During these marches, ever since quitting Ugunda, a favourite topic
at the camp-fires were the Wa-Ruga-Ruga, and their atrocities, and
a possible encounter that we might have with these bold rovers of
the forest. I verily believe that a sudden onset of half a dozen
of Mirambo’s people would have set the whole caravan arunning.
We reached Marefu the next day, after a short three hours’ march.
We there found an embassy sent by the Arabs of Unyanyembe, to the
Southern Watuta, bearing presents of several bales, in charge of
Hassan the Mseguhha. This valiant leader and diplomatist had halted
here some ten days because of wars and rumours of wars in his front.
It was said that Mbogo, Sultan of Mboga in Ukonongo, was at war
with the brother of Manwa Sera, and as Mbogo was a large district
of Ukonongo only two days’ march from Marefu; fear of being involved
in it was deterring old Hassan from proceeding. He advised me also
not to proceed, as it was impossible to be able to do so without
being embroiled in the conflict. I informed him that I intended
to proceed on my way, and take my chances, and graciously offered
him my escort as far as the frontier of Ufipa, from which he could
easily and safely continue on his way to the Watuta, but he
declined it.
We had now been travelling fourteen days in a southwesterly
direction, having made a little more than one degree of latitude.
I had intended to have gone a little further south, because it was
such a good road, also since by going further south we should have
labored under no fear of meeting Mirambo; but the report of this
war in our front, only two days off, compelled me, in the interest
of the Expedition, to strike across towards the Tanganika, an a
west-by-north course through the forest, travelling, when it was
advantageous, along elephant tracks and local paths. This new plan
was adopted after consulting with Asmani, the guide. We were now
in Ukonongo, having entered this district when we crossed the Gombe
creek. The next day after arriving at Marefu we plunged westward,
in view of the villagers, and the Arab ambassador, who kept
repeating until the last moment that we should “certainly catch
it.”
We marched eight hours through a forest, where the forest peach,
or the “mbembu,” is abundant. The tree that bears this fruit is
very like a pear-tree, and is very productive. I saw one tree,
upon which I estimated there were at least six or seven bushels.
I ate numbers of the peaches on this day. So long as this fruit
can be produced, a traveller in these regions need
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