The Project Gutenberg EBook of Textiles and Clothing, by Kate Heintz Watson
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Title: Textiles and Clothing
Author: Kate Heintz Watson
Release Date: May 19, 2007 [EBook #21534]
Language: English
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Textiles and Clothing
BY
KATE HEINTZ WATSON
GRADUATE ARMOUR INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
FORMERLY INSTRUCTOR IN DOMESTIC ART
LEWIS INSTITUTE
LECTURER UNIVERSITY OF CHICAGO
AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS seal
CHICAGO
AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS
1907
COPYRIGHT 1906, 1907, BY
HOME ECONOMICS ASSOCIATION
THE LIBRARY
OF
HOME ECONOMICS
A COMPLETE HOME-STUDY COURSE
ON THE NEW PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING AND ART OF RIGHT LIVING;
THE PRACTICAL APPLICATION OF THE MOST RECENT ADVANCES
IN THE ARTS AND SCIENCES TO HOME AND HEALTH
PREPARED BY TEACHERS OF
RECOGNIZED AUTHORITY
FOR HOME-MAKERS, MOTHERS, TEACHERS, PHYSICIANS, NURSES, DIETITIANS,
PROFESSIONAL HOUSE MANAGERS, AND ALL INTERESTED
IN HOME, HEALTH, ECONOMY AND CHILDREN
TWELVE VOLUMES
NEARLY THREE THOUSAND PAGES, ONE THOUSAND ILLUSTRATIONS
TESTED BY USE IN CORRESPONDENCE INSTRUCTION
REVISED AND SUPPLEMENTED
American School of Home Economics seal
CHICAGO
AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS
1907
Copyright, 1907
by
Home Economics Association
Entered at Stationers' Hall, London All Rights Reserved.
AUTHORS
ISABEL BEVIER, Ph. M.
Professor of Household Science, University of Illinois. Author U. S. Government Bulletins, "Development of The Home Economics Movement in America," etc.
ALICE PELOUBET NORTON, M. A.
Assistant Professor of Home Economics, School of Eduction, University of Chicago; Director of the Chautauqua School of Domestic Science.
S. MARIA ELLIOTT
Instructor in Home Economics, Simmons College; Formerly Instructor School of Housekeeping, Boston.
ANNA BARROWS
Director Chautauqua School of Cookery; Lecturer Teachers' College, Columbia University, and Simmons College; formerly Editor "American Kitchen Magazine;" Author "Home Science Cook Book."
ALFRED CLEVELAND COTTON, A. M., M. D.
Professor Diseases of Children, Rush Medical College, University of Chicago; Visiting Physician Presbyterian Hospital, Chicago; Author of "Diseases of Children."
BERTHA M. TERRILL, A. B.
Professor in Home Economics in Hartford School of Pedagogy; Author of U. S. Government Bulletins.
KATE HEINTZ WATSON
Formerly Instructor in Domestic Economy, Lewis Institute; Lecturer University of Chicago.
MARION FOSTER WASHBURNE
Editor "The Mothers' Magazine;" Lecturer Chicago Froebel Association; Author "Everyday Essays," "Family Secrets," etc.
MARGARET E. DODD
Graduate Massachusetts Institute of Technology; Teacher of Science, Woodard Institute.
AMY ELIZABETH POPE
With the Panama Canal Commission; Formerly Instructor in Practical and Theoretical Nursing, Training School for Nurses, Presbyterian Hospital, New York City.
MAURICE LE BOSQUET, S. B.
Director American School of Home Economics; Member American Public Health Association and American Chemical Society.
CONTRIBUTORS AND EDITORS
ELLEN H. RICHARDS
Author "Cost of Food," "Cost of Living," "Cost of Shelter," "Food Materials and Their Adulteration," etc., etc.; Chairman Lake Placid Conference on Home Economics.
MARY HINMAN ABEL
Author of U. S. Government Bulletins, "Practical Sanitary and Economic Cooking," "Sale Food," etc.
THOMAS D. WOOD, M. D.
Professor of Physical Education, Columbia University.
H. M. LUFKIN, M. D.
Professor of Physical Diagnosis and Clinical Medicine, University of Minnesota.
OTTO FOLIN, Ph. D.
Special Investigator, McLean Hospital, Waverly, Mass.
T. MITCHELL PRUDDEN, M. D., LL. D.
Author "Dust and Its Dangers," "The Story of the Bacteria," "Drinking Water and Ice Supplies," etc.
FRANK CHOUTEAU BROWN
Architect, Boston, Mass.; Author of "The Five Orders of Architecture," "Letters and Lettering."
MRS. MELVIL DEWEY
Secretar Lake Placid Conference on Home Economics.
HELEN LOUISE JOHNSON
Professor of Home Economics, James Millikan University, Decatur.
FRANK W. ALLIN, M. D.
Instructor Rush Medical College, University of Chicago.
MANAGING EDITOR
MAURICE LE BOSQUET, S. B.
Director American School of Home Economics.
BOARD OF TRUSTEES
OF THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS
MRS. ARTHUR COURTENAY NEVILLE
President of the Board.
MISS MARIA PARLOA
Founder of the first Cooking School in Boston; Author of "Home Economics," "Young Housekeeper," U. S. Government Bulletins, etc.
MRS. MARY HINMAN ABEL
Co-worker in the "New England Kitchen," and the "Rumford Food Laboratory;" Author of U. S. Government Bulletins, "Practical Sanitary and Economic Cooking," etc.
MISS ALICE RAVENHILL
Special Commissioner sent by the British Government to report on the Schools of Home Economics in the United States; Fellow of the Royal Sanitary Institute, London.
MRS. ELLEN M. HENROTIN
Honorary President General Federation of Woman's Clubs.
MRS. FREDERIC W. SCHOFF
President National Congress of Mothers.
MRS. LINDA HULL LARNED
Past President National Household Economics Association; Author of "Hostess of To-day."
MRS. WALTER McNAB MILLER
Chairman of the Pure Food Committee of the General Federation of Woman's Clubs.
MRS. J. A. KIMBERLY
Vice President of National Household Economics Association.
MRS. JOHN HOODLESS
Government Superintendent of Domestic Science for the province of Ontario; Founder Ontario Normal School of Domestic Science, now the MacDonald Institute.
DRESS MAKING IN MEXICO DRESS MAKING IN MEXICO
CONTENTS
Primitive Methods
3
Weaving
14
Fibers
29
Cotton
29
Wool
37
Flax
43
Silk
53
Modern Methods
59
Weaving
69
Weaves
72
Bleaching and Dyeing
78
Printing
81
Finishing
83
Cotton Goods
85
Linens
86
Woolens and Worsteds
88
Silks
90
Names of Fabrics
94
Bibliography on Textiles
103
Hand Sewing
107
Ornamental Stitches
114
Hems
123
Tucks and Seams
128
Plackets
135
Sewing on Bands
138
Fastenings
141
Patching
149
Darning
155
Mitering Embroidery, Joining Lace
158
Machine Sewing
162
Dressmaking
167
Patterns
171
Making Seven-Gored Skirt
172
Making Shirt Waists
182
Lined Waist
186
Sleeves
194
Collars
198
Seamless Yokes
200
Pressing
201
Construction and Ornament in Dress
203
Ornament of Textiles
212
Color
214
Children's Clothes
216
Care of Clothing
219
Cleaning
221
Repairing
225
Bibliography on Sewing and Dressmaking
229
References: History of Costume; Ornament and Design
234
Program for Supplemental Study
236
Index
241
"THE THREAD OF LIFE "THE THREAD OF LIFE"
Spinning with the Distaff and Spindle. From a Painting.
TEXTILES AND CLOTHING
Origin of Textile Arts
Spinning and weaving are among the earliest arts. In the twisting of fibers, hairs, grasses, and sinews by rolling them between the thumb and fingers, palms of the hands, or palms and naked thigh, we have the original of the spinning wheel and the steam-driven cotton spindle; in the roughest plaiting we have the first hint of the finest woven cloth. The need of securing things or otherwise strengthening them then led to binding, fastening, and sewing. The wattle-work hut with its roof of interlaced boughs, the skins sewn by fine needles with entrails or sinews, the matted twigs, grasses, and rushes are all the crude beginnings of an art which tells of the settled life of to-day.
Primitive Methods
Nothing is definitely known of the origin of these arts; all is conjecture. They doubtless had their beginning long before mention is made of them in history, but these crafts—spinning and weaving—modified and complicated by inventions and, in modern times transferred largely from man to machine, were distinctively woman's employment.
The very primitive type of spinning, where no spindle was used, was to fasten the strands of goats' hair or wool to a stone which was twirled round until the yarn was sufficiently twisted when it was wound upon the stone and the process repeated over and over.
ITALIAN WOMAN SPINNING FLAX ITALIAN WOMAN SPINNING FLAX
Spindle and Distaff.
From Hull House Museum. (In This Series of Pictures the Spinners and Weavers Are in Native Costume.)
RUSSIAN SPINNING RUSSIAN SPINNING
Flax Held on Frame, Leaving Both Hands Free to Manage the Thread and Spindle.
From Hull House Museum.
Spinning with the Spindle
The next method of twisting yarn was with the spindle, a straight stick eight to twelve inches long on which the thread was wound after twisting. At first it had a cleft or split in the top in which the thread was fixed; later a hook of bone was added to the upper end. The spindle is yet used by the North American Indians, the Italians, and in the Orient. The bunch of wool or flax fibers is held in the left hand; with the right hand the fibers are drawn out several inches and the end fastened securely in the slit or hook on the top of the spindle. A whirling motion is given to the spindle on the thigh or any convenient part of the body; the spindle is then dropped, twisting the yarn, which is wound on the upper part of the spindle. Another bunch of fibers is drawn out, the spindle is given another twirl, the yarn is wound on the spindle, and so on.
Spindle Whorl
A spindle containing a quantity of yarn was found to rotate more easily, steadily and continue longer than an empty one, hence the next improvement was the addition of a whorl at the bottom of the spindle. These whorls are discs of wood, stone, clay, or metal which keep the spindle steady and promote its rotation. The process in effect is precisely the same as the spinning done by our grandmothers, only the spinning wheel did the twisting and reduced the time required for the operation.
SPINNING WITH CRUDE WHEEL AND DISTAFF SPINNING WITH CRUDE WHEEL AND DISTAFF
Distaff Thrust Into the Belt.
"GOSSIP" IN THE OLDEN TIMES "GOSSIP" IN THE OLDEN TIMES
COLONIAL WOOL WHEEL COLONIAL WOOL WHEEL
The Large Wheel Revolved by Hand Thus Turning the Spindle and Twisting the Yarn, Which Is Then Wound on the Spindle; Intermittent in Action.
COLONIAL FLAX WHEEL COLONIAL FLAX WHEEL
Worked by a Foot Treddle; Distaff on the Frame of the Wheel; "Fliers" on the Spindle, Continuous in Action; Capacity Seven Times That of Hand Spindle.
DUTCH WHEEL DUTCH WHEEL
Spinner Sits in Front of the Wheel—Spinning Flax at Hull House.
Distaff
Later the distaff was used for holding the bunch of wool, flax, or other fibers. It was a short stick on one end of which was loosely wound the raw material. The other end of the distaff was held in the hand, under the arm or thrust in the girdle of the spinner. When held thus, one hand was left free for drawing out the fibers.
Graphic Diagram Showing Time During which Different Methods of Spinning Has Been Used. Graphic Diagram Showing Time During which Different Methods of Spinning Has Been Used.
Wheel Spinning
On the small spinning wheel the distaff was placed in the end of the wheel bench in front of the "fillers"; this left both hands free to manage the spindle and to draw out the threads of the fibers.
SYRIAN SPINNING SYRIAN SPINNING
Spinner Sits on the Floor, Wheel Turned by a Crank; Spindle Held in Place by Two Mutton Joints Which Contain Enough Oil for Lubrication. At Hull House.
The flax spinning wheel, worked by means of a treadle, was invented in the early part of the sixteenth
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