Travels Through France And Italy, Tobias Smollett [love novels in english .TXT] 📗
- Author: Tobias Smollett
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With Him The Night Before His Execution. He Bore His Fate With
Great Resolution, Observing That If The Letter Which He Had
Written To The King Had Been Delivered, He Certainly Should Have
Obtained His Majesty's Pardon. His Executioner Was One Of His Own
Gang, Who Was Pardoned On Condition Of Performing This Office.
You Know, That Criminals Broke Upon The Wheel Are First
Strangled, Unless The Sentence Imports, That They Shall Be Broke
Alive. As Mandrin Had Not Been Guilty Of Cruelty In The Course Of
His Delinquency, He Was Indulged With This Favour. Speaking To
The Executioner, Whom He Had Formerly Commanded, "Joseph (Dit
Il), Je Ne Veux Pas Que Tu Me Touche, Jusqu'a Ce Que Je Sois Roid
Mort," "Joseph," Said He, "Thou Shalt Not Touch Me Till I Am
Quite Dead."--Our Driver Had No Sooner Pronounced These Words,
Than I Was Struck With A Suspicion, That He Himself Was The
Executioner Of His Friend Mandrin. On That Suspicion, I
Exclaimed, "Ah! Ah! Joseph!" The Fellow Blushed Up To The Eyes,
And Said, Oui, Son Nom Etoit Joseph Aussi Bien Que Le Mien, "Yes,
He Was Called Joseph, As I Am." I Did Not Think Proper To
Prosecute The Inquiry; But Did Not Much Relish The Nature Of
Joseph's Connexions. The Truth Is, He Had Very Much The Looks Of
A Ruffian; Though, I Must Own, His Behaviour Was Very Obliging
And Submissive.
Part 7 Letter 9 ( Montpellier, November 5, 1763.) Pg 108
On The Fifth Day Of Our Journey, In The Morning, We Passed The
Famous Bridge At St. Esprit, Which To Be Sure Is A Great
Curiosity, From Its Length, And The Number Of Its Arches: But
These Arches Are Too Small: The Passage Above Is Too Narrow; And
The Whole Appears To Be Too Slight, Considering The Force And
Impetuosity Of The River. It Is Not Comparable To The Bridge At
Westminster, Either For Beauty Or Solidity. Here We Entered
Languedoc, And Were Stopped To Have Our Baggage Examined; But The
Searcher, Being Tipped With A Three-Livre Piece, Allowed It To
Pass. Before We Leave Dauphine, I Must Observe, That I Was Not A
Little Surprized To See Figs And Chestnuts Growing In The Open
Fields, At The Discretion Of Every Passenger. It Was This Day I
Saw The Famous Pont Du Garde; But As I Cannot Possibly Include,
In This Letter, A Description Of That Beautiful Bridge, And Of
The Other Antiquities Belonging To Nismes, I Will Defer It Till
The Next Opportunity, Being, In The Mean Time, With Equal Truth
And Affection,--Dear Sir, Your Obliged Humble Servant.
Part 7 Letter 10 (Montpellier, November 10, 1763.) Pg 109
Dear Sir,--By The Pont St. Esprit We Entered The Province Of
Languedoc, And Breakfasted At Bagniole, Which Is A Little Paltry
Town; From Whence, However, There Is An Excellent Road Through A
Mountain, Made At A Great Expence, And Extending About Four
Leagues. About Five In The Afternoon, I Had The First Glimpse Of
The Famous Pont Du Garde, Which Stands On The Right Hand, About
The Distance Of A League From The Post-Road To Nismes, And About
Three Leagues From That City. I Would Not Willingly Pass For A
False Enthusiast In Taste; But I Cannot Help Observing, That From
The First Distant View Of This Noble Monument, Till We Came Near
Enough To See It Perfectly, I Felt The Strongest Emotions Of
Impatience That I Had Ever Known; And Obliged Our Driver To Put
His Mules To The Full Gallop, In The Apprehension That It Would
Be Dark Before We Reached The Place. I Expected To Find The
Building, In Some Measure, Ruinous; But Was Agreeably
Disappointed, To See It Look As Fresh As The Bridge At
Westminster. The Climate Is Either So Pure And Dry, Or The Free-Stone,
With Which It Is Built, So Hard, That The Very Angles Of
Them Remain As Acute As If They Had Been Cut Last Year. Indeed,
Some Large Stones Have Dropped Out Of The Arches; But The Whole
Is Admirably Preserved, And Presents The Eye With A Piece Of
Architecture, So Unaffectedly Elegant, So Simple, And Majestic,
That I Will Defy The Most Phlegmatic And Stupid Spectator To
Behold It Without Admiration. It Was Raised In The Augustan Age,
By The Roman Colony Of Nismes, To Convey A Stream Of Water
Between Two Mountains, For The Use Of That City. It Stands Over
Part 7 Letter 10 (Montpellier, November 10, 1763.) Pg 110The River Gardon, Which Is A Beautiful Pastoral Stream, Brawling
Among Rocks, Which Form A Number Of Pretty Natural Cascades, And
Overshadowed On Each Side With Trees And Shrubs, Which Greatly
Add To The Rural Beauties Of The Scene. It Rises In The Cevennes,
And The Sand Of It Produces Gold, As We Learn From Mr. Reaumur,
In His Essay On This Subject, Inserted In The French Memoirs, For
The Year 1718. If I Lived At Nismes, Or Avignon (Which Last City
Is Within Four Short Leagues Of It) I Should Take Pleasure In
Forming Parties To Come Hither, In Summer, To Dine Under One Of
The Arches Of The Pont Du Garde, On A Cold Collation.
This Work Consists Of Three Bridges, Or Tire Of Arches, One Above
Another; The First Of Six, The Second Of Eleven, And The Third Of
Thirty-Six. The Height, Comprehending The Aqueduct On The Top,
Amounts To 174 Feet Three Inches: The Length Between The Two
Mountains, Which It Unites, Extends To 723. The Order Of
Architecture Is The Tuscan, But The Symmetry Of It Is
Inconceivable. By Scooping The Bases Of The Pilasters, Of The
Second Tire Of Arches, They Had Made A Passage For Foot-Travellers:
But Though The Antients Far Excelled Us In Beauty,
They Certainly Fell Short Of The Moderns In Point Of Conveniency.
The Citizens Of Avignon Have, In This Particular, Improved The
Roman Work With A New Bridge, By Apposition, Constructed On The
Same Plan With That Of The Lower Tire Of Arches, Of Which Indeed
It Seems To Be A Part, Affording A Broad And Commodious Passage
Over The River, To Horses And Carriages Of All Kinds. The
Aqueduct, For The Continuance Of Which This Superb Work Was
Raised, Conveyed A Stream Of Sweet Water From The Fountain Of
Eure, Near The City Of Uzes, And Extended Near Six Leagues In
Length.
In Approaching Nismes, You See The Ruins Of A Roman Tower, Built
On The Summit Of A Hill, Which Over-Looks The City. It Seems To
Have Been Intended, At First, As A Watch, Or Signal-Tower,
Though, In The Sequel, It Was Used As A Fortress: What Remains Of
It, Is About Ninety Feet High; The Architecture Of The Doric
Order. I No Sooner Alighted At The Inn, Than I Was Presented With
A Pamphlet, Containing An Account Of Nismes And Its Antiquities,
Which Every Stranger Buys. There Are Persons Too Who Attend In
Order To Shew The Town,
And You Will Always Be Accosted By Some Shabby Antiquarian, Who
Presents You With Medals For Sale, Assuring You They Are Genuine
Antiques, And Were Dug Out Of The Ruins Of The Roman Temple And
Baths. All Those Fellows Are Cheats; And They Have Often Laid
Under Contribution Raw English Travellers, Who Had More Money
Than Discretion. To Such They Sell The Vilest And Most Common
Trash: But When They Meet With A Connoisseur, They Produce Some
Medals Which Are Really Valuable And Curious.
Part 7 Letter 10 (Montpellier, November 10, 1763.) Pg 111
Nismes, Antiently Called Nemausis, Was Originally A Colony Of
Romans, Settled By Augustus Caesar, After The Battle Of Actium.
It Is Still Of Considerable Extent, And Said To Contain Twelve
Thousand Families; But The Number Seems, By This Account, To Be
Greatly Exaggerated. Certain It Is, The City Must Have Been
Formerly Very Extensive, As Appears From The Circuit Of The
Antient Walls, The Remains Of Which Are Still To Be Seen. Its
Present Size Is Not One Third Of Its Former Extent. Its Temples,
Baths, Statues, Towers, Basilica, And Amphitheatre, Prove It To
Have Been A City Of Great Opulence And Magnificence. At Present,
The Remains Of These Antiquities Are All That Make It Respectable
Or Remarkable; Though Here Are Manufactures Of Silk And Wool,
Carried On With Good Success. The Water Necessary For These Works
Is Supplied By A Source At The Foot Of The Rock, Upon Which The
Tower Is Placed; And Here Were Discovered The Ruins Of Roman
Baths, Which Had Been Formed And Adorned With Equal Taste And
Magnificence. Among The Rubbish They Found A Vast Profusion Of
Columns, Vases, Capitals, Cornices, Inscriptions, Medals,
Statues, And Among Other Things, The Finger Of A Colossal Statue
In Bronze, Which, According To The Rules Of Proportion, Must Have
Been Fifteen Feet High. From These Particulars, It Appears That
The Edifices Must Have Been Spacious And Magnificent. Part Of A
Tesselated Pavement Still Remains. The Antient Pavement Of The
Bath Is Still Intire; All The Rubbish Has Been Cleared Away; And
The Baths, In A Great Measure, Restored On The Old Plan, Though
They Are Not At Present Used For Any Thing But Ornament. The
Water Is Collected Into Two Vast Reservoirs, And A Canal Built
And Lined With Hewn Stone. There Are Three Handsome Bridges
Thrown Over This Vast Canal. It Contains A Great Body Of
Excellent Water, Which By Pipes And Other Small Branching Canals,
Traverses The Town, And Is Converted To Many Different Purposes
Of Oeconomy And Manufacture. Between The Roman Bath And These
Great Canals, The Ground Is Agreeably Laid Out In Pleasure-Walks.
For The Recreation Of The Inhabitants. Here Are Likewise
Ornaments Of Architecture, Which Savour Much More Of French
Foppery, Than Of The Simplicity And Greatness Of The Antients. It
Is Very Surprizing, That This Fountain Should Produce Such
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