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LEMONGRASS STALKS are amazingly aromatic reeds, treasured more for their fragrance than their flavor. They can grow up to 2 feet high and range in color from pale yellowish green to green-gray. To use lemongrass, cut off the tough root end, peel away the thick outer layers, and slice or mince the tender core. The tough exterior layers can be used in stock. Lemongrass is sold in Asian markets and many supermarkets. It is easy to grow, and although tropical, it will grow in moderate climates, and we have successfully harvested it even with our short upstate New York summers.

MANGOES There is nothing quite like a luscious ripe mango. Mangoes have a large, flat central pit that occupies about a third of the fruit and the pulp is very slippery, so be careful when slicing or peeling them. To cube a mango, use a sharp knife and slice from top to bottom along one of the broad, flat sides, cutting as close to the pit as possible. Then slice off the other side, leaving about a 1-inch strip of pulp and peel attached to the pit. Without cutting into the peel, score the pulp of each sliced half in a crosshatch pattern. Then bend each mango half inside out and slice off the cubes. Carefully peel and then cut away the pulp clinging to the pit.

MICROPLANE GRATER Possibly the greatest cooking tool introduced in the last decade. A long, flat stainless-steel grater with small, sharp grating edges. It makes fast work of grating whole nutmeg, fresh ginger and hard cheeses, and it’s perfect for grating lemon and orange peel; with a light touch, the zest is very finely shredded (not gummy), and it’s easy to avoid grating too deep and getting into the bitter pith. Microplane graters are easy to use and easy to clean. Originally they were woodworking tools sold in hardware stores, and then someone discovered how great they are in the kitchen. Look for them in kitchen supply stores and cooking catalogs.

MIRIN A Japanese sweet cooking wine made from rice, with a lovely, sweet flavor. If you’re caught without mirin, substitute brown sugar (two-thirds of the amount of mirin called for) or a mixture of two-thirds dry sherry and one-third brown sugar. Find mirin where Japanese foods are sold.

MISO A salty, fermented soybean-grain paste. Types vary greatly in intensity and flavor depending on the grains added to the soybeans and the length of the aging process. We most often use rice miso, which is amber-colored and has a delicate and slightly sweet flavor. Add miso at the end of cooking. Avoid boiling it, because high heat destroys its beneficial digestive and antibacterial enzymes. Miso is available in natural foods stores, most supermarkets, and Asian groceries where Japanese foods are sold.

NUTS

We recommend whole nuts and pieces because they’re less expensive than prepackaged chopped or sliced ones, and their flavor is superior when you chop them as they’re needed. Nuts should be kept in the refrigerator for short-term storage, or frozen in freezer bags and containers for up to a year.

To toast nuts:

In a Microwave Oven Nuts and seeds don’t brown in a microwave, but they do get that crispness and the deep, rich flavor of oven-toasted nuts. Spread the nuts on a plate; the time varies for different nuts and depending on the strength of the microwave oven.

In a Skillet In a heavy skillet on medium heat, spread the nuts in one layer and toast, stirring as they brown. They’re done when they become aromatic and lightly browned.

In the Oven Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the nuts or seeds evenly in one layer on a dry baking sheet. Bake them for about 5 minutes, stirring once for even toasting.

OLD BAY is our favorite brand of Chesapeake Bay seasoning, a distinctive spice and herb mix, salty with a hint of heat, commonly used in seafood dishes. Usually, you’ll find it near the seafood counter or in the spice section.

PAPPADAMS are round, flat, extremely thin disks about 8 inches in diameter, made of spiced chickpea or lentil flour, and commonly used in Indian cooking. Cook each pappadam by briefly frying in a heavy skillet in hot oil. As soon as it is placed in the hot oil, it will brown, blister, and become crisp. Remove right away and place on paper towels to drain. Packages of pappadams can be bought in Asian groceries or the international section of supermarkets.

PASTA For cooking directions, this page. Italian pasta is made in a multitude of shapes: long strands (spaghetti, fusilli, linguine, fettuccine), short and chunky (spiralini, farfalle, elbows, short penne), flat (fettuccine, farfalle, lasagna noodles, tagliatelle), hollowed (penne, ziti, elbows, shells, orecchiette) and very short or small (pastina, orzo, tubettini, gnocchetti sardi). Most of the Italian names for the shapes are descriptive, sometimes amusing: orecchiette, little ears; spaghetti, strings; tubetti and tubettini, small tubes and tiny tubes; linguine, tongues; farfalle, butterflies; manicotti, small muffs. It’s a good thing that pasta comes in clear bags, so we can see what we’re getting.

PESTO is a sumptuous paste usually made with olive oil, basil, nuts, garlic, and aged cheese. Homemade pesto freezes very well. In specialty food stores and often in the produce section of supermarkets, you can find pesto packed in jars—a great pantry staple for last-minute meals.

PINE NUTS (pignoli) are the edible seeds of certain pine trees that grow in Central America, the Mediterranean, and southwestern United States. These highly perishable nuts have a sweet flavor and creamy texture. Store them in a closed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 months. For the best flavor, dry-roast them in a skillet or 350° oven for 3 to 5 minutes until golden brown.

ROASTED RED PEPPERS Look for roasted red peppers in jars or cans in Italian grocery stores or near the pasta sauces in supermarkets. To roast a fresh pepper, place a whole red bell pepper directly over the flame on