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a gas stove or under the broiler and char it for about 10 minutes, turning occasionally with tongs. Cool the pepper in a covered bowl or a closed paper bag. Remove the stem and seeds and most of the charred skin.

RICE this page.

RICE NOODLES (rice sticks) are long, translucent, off-white noodles of various widths, round and flat. They’re made of rice flour. Look for them in Asian groceries and many supermarkets. To cook rice noodles, either boil them briefly in plenty of water or immerse them in hot water and let them sit for several minutes, until soft.

SALAD GREENS See Greens.

SEASONED TOFU See Tofu.

SEITAN Wheat gluten that has been boiled and then sautéed in flavorings such as soy sauce and ginger. It is available in sealed packages and canned, both plain and seasoned, and once opened will keep in the refrigerator for about a week.

SESAME OIL When we call for sesame oil in this book, we mean dark sesame oil, which is pressed from roasted sesame seeds and is used as a rich, aromatic flavoring.

SHRIMP The count on shrimp labels refers to how many shrimp of that size are in 1 pound. The smaller the count, the larger the shrimp. Usually larger shrimp are more succulent and flavorful but more expensive, too. Shrimp recipes in this book call for raw peeled and deveined shrimp. We recommend thawing frozen shrimp briefly in cold water to reduce curling and toughening when they are cooked. Shrimp are done as soon as they turn pink, usually 3 minutes in hot liquid or 3 to 5 minutes in a pan or on a hot grill; longer cooking times make them tough and dry.

SLAW MIXES One of our favorite simple supper convenience foods, good for both quickly prepared side salads and as an ingredient in vegetable sautés. Cellophane packages of coleslaw (shredded cabbage and carrots), Asian slaw (finely shredded napa or savoy cabbage, celery, and carrots), and broccoli slaw (shredded broccoli, carrots, and celery) can be found in most supermarket produce sections.

SOBA NOODLES are hearty Japanese noodles made with buckwheat flour. Look for them in natural foods stores, Asian groceries, and large supermarkets. Cook soba noodles in a large pot of boiling water, until tender but still firm, from 3 to 10 minutes.

SOY MILK is a thick dairy-free beverage that can be used in place of regular milk in most recipes. Whole soy milk, low-fat, and flavored varieties are available in natural foods stores and supermarkets.

SOY SAUCE The best-tasting, purest soy sauces are made from four ingredients only: soybeans, water, wheat, and salt. Some good wheat-free and low-sodium soy sauces are available. Avoid diluted sauces that include caramel coloring, sweetening, and/or preservatives. Soy sauces vary in strength and saltiness, so taste yours before adding it to a dish. Soy sauce is widely available in Asian groceries and supermarkets.

SPICE GRINDER Ground spices are convenient, but freshly ground seeds such as fennel, cumin, coriander, and cardamom are more flavorful. An electric coffee grinder, used just for spices, makes it easy to grind as needed.

SUN-DRIED TOMATOES with their intense tart-sweet, salty flavor and chewy texture, add an instant depth of flavor to soups, sauces, pasta, and sandwiches. They are often quite salty, so use additional salt judiciously. Look for plain dried tomatoes without sulfites. Soak dried tomatoes in boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes, until softened, before chopping and adding to a dish.

TABASCO is one of the most widely known and used brands of hot pepper sauce and a staple in the Moosewood kitchen. It’s made with vinegar, red chiles, and salt. Other hot pepper sauces abound; we like to look for locally produced favorites.

TOFU also known as bean curd, is made from soy milk to which a coagulant is added. It has little taste of its own, but it absorbs flavors readily. It comes in blocks of varying weights and firmness. Fresh tofu is packed in water and found in the refrigerator case in natural foods stores, supermarkets, and Asian grocery stores. Tofu can also be purchased in vacuum-packed containers with an indefinite shelf life at room temperature. Once the package is opened, tofu is perishable and should be stored in the refrigerator in a container of water that is changed daily to maintain freshness. Use both fresh tofu and opened shelf-stable tofu within a week.

FIRM TOFU usually available both refrigerated and shelf-stable, is sold in cakes that weigh between 12 and 18 ounces. Its texture is denser than and holds its shape better than soft and silken tofu. It can be crumbled or cut into cubes, triangles, slabs, or sticks and is good baked or added to stir-fries and stews.

For a firmer, drier texture, press tofu (to remove some of the water) before cooking it. Sandwich the tofu between two plates and weight the top with a heavy object such as a book or can. Press for 15 or 20 minutes.

FROZEN TOFU When you freeze a cake of firm tofu, its texture becomes spongelike. After it is thawed, you can squeeze out quite a bit of water. Then the tofu can be grated or chopped to make a crumbly, chewy addition to soups, stews, and stuffings. It takes at least 6 hours to freeze tofu and about as long to thaw it, so you need to plan ahead. The process can be speeded by slicing the cake of tofu horizontally into two or three slabs before freezing it. Place the tofu on a tray, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and put in the freezer for at least 6 hours. Defrost in the refrigerator or at room temperature, squeeze out the water, and use immediately.

SOFT TOFU is sold in cakes like firm tofu. Its texture is between silken and firm, making it ideal for soups, stews, blended sauces, dips, and spreads.

SILKEN TOFU usually sold in boxes, is higher in fat and protein than firm tofu. Its delicate, silky texture and mild flavor make it perfect for desserts, smoothies, and dressings. “Lite” silken tofu has a reduced-fat content.

SEASONED

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